My Super, Epic Journey to Scandinavia

At the moment I am sitting in my hotel room on Nyhavn in Copenhagen (København), Denmark. This is my second day here, technically, but it feels like my forth due to my weird napping cycle (in turn due to the jet lag I’m suffering from this time around–I guess last year shift work did me a solid). I wish I had a better “photo diary” for you thus far, but I’ve been spending the past day as a somewhat zombie. I’ll give you what I have so far, though!

Our journey begins in Toronto, home of the “Claritin Bike Taxi”:

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My sister informs me that they were busy handing out samples of actual Claritin elsewhere in the city, which I would have thought was maybe illegal, but what do I know? Anyway, despite Rob Ford, Toronto really does try with the bikes, but unfortunately riding a bike is not yet totally devoid of political weight (ha ha), and I anxiously await the day when riding a bike in Toronto will be as easy as riding a bike.

So we had fun in Toronto, went to see War Horse, tickets a gift from my sister, celebrated my mom’s birthday/mother’s day/our anniversary, ate an expensive steak, chastised my mother into riding the bike she bought a while back, and before we knew it, it was time to head to the airport.

The last and only time we flew to Europe together, it was with Air Canada, and it was a direct flight with food and entertainment and such (we ended up flying Lufthansa back, but that’s a whole other story). This time we decided to try IcelandAir, which is maybe a third of the price and makes you transfer in Reykjavik–and who doesn’t want to see Iceland, if even just from the airport?

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If you think that this looks like a tiny plane for a transatlantic flight, you would be thinking the same as we were. Luckily we both have zero fear of flying.

I will be honest with you here: Iceland seems to be an odd place. The kind of place that maybe someone like Bjork would be from. If I had to throw out the adjectives that made up my exhausted first impression of Iceland (well, the view from the taxiing plane and the airport), they would be–stark, surreal, post-apocalyptic, naive, jaded, ancient, ageless, “touched,” paranoid, and just generally paradoxical. They gave us a bottle of water on the plane, which I thoughtlessly shoved in my bag, but then made us go through airport security again (BEFORE sending us though customs), at which point they made me throw out the water. I apologised to the long-suffering security guy, mumbling that it was from the plane, and he said, “Yes, sorry, I don’t know why they keep doing that.” Classic Iceland. Also classic Iceland: hunks of meat in the duty-free shop. And also, not telling us when to get on the plane to Copenhagen. We actually really could have missed our connection, but anyway…

We arrived in Copenhagen, took the metro to Kongens Nytorv without incident, checked into our hotel, fell asleep for a few hours, ate some fish (mmm!) and strawberries (mmmmm!) at Cap Horn, a restaurant on the Nyhavn stretch. Many more things happened, never fear, but I will have to wait to tell you about them because it’s now 1 AM and we’re catching the train to Århus tomorrow and I don’t want these jet lag problems to continue. But I promise there will be more!

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Kreativity

I will shortly be headed out to the airport in order to fly to Toronto (yessssss) and then, on Monday, Copenhagen (or as the cool kids call it, København–all the cool kids are Danish). My modem, the dastardly thing, is broken, and so for the last few days I’ve been doing everything via BlackBerry (now, to me, CrackBerry), which has sufficed for more than you might think–except for the WordPress app, which I somehow broke? and can’t access comments/my account, etc. So as I sit here stealing wifi from a nearby Starbucks (thanks!), waiting for my sir to scuttle down from his office, à la Zoidberg, I’m finally able to catch up on all things internetty and, more importantly, WordPressy.

And I feel terrible that I haven’t been able to acknowledge this sooner, but it would be remiss of me not to mention the nod/nomination I have received from Rebecca Lane Beittel, over at rebeccaoftomorrow (it could be “Rebecca of Tomorrow”–much apologies for representing it wrong, as I probably have). She’s a novelist and a wit, and her writing never ceases to amuse and delight, so please check out her blog.

So, what is this Kreativ Blogger thing? It sounds kind of Scandinavian, what with the “kreativ,” but that could just be wishful thinking on my part. My efforts at Danish/Swedish/Norwegian (yes, I’ve tried learning all three) haven’t gone as splendidly as other languages I’ve tried learning. Maybe because there’s no grade or exam looming, maybe because those languages aren’t dead…

But anyway! The “rules,” as such, are that it behooves me to:

Thank my nominator.

Provide a link to his/her blog.

List 7 things readers might find interesting about me.

And nominate 7 others!

What on earth would readers find interesting about me?

1. I’ve always hated icebreaker things where I have to say something interesting about myself, due to the weird tension between seeming lame, or vain, or both.

2. I have studied, in some capacity and resulting (at least at the time) in a modest reading ability: English, Middle English, Old English, French, Classical Greek, Latin, and Old Saxon. Over time, though, the only ones that seem to have stuck around as active knowledge are Modern and Middle English (one would hope!), French, and Latin.

3. I will learn at least Swedish one day…!

4. I can’t sleep if there’s a light on in my apartment–even if it’s not on in the room I’m in.

5. I don’t like raisins.

6. It’s my first anniversary on Monday! My present Is the traditional paper–a plane ticket to Scandinavia!

7. I live in Ottawa but I am not of Ottawa (ha!) and sometimes am quite startled by the people around me and the funny things they do.

I know I am meant now to nominate seven people (what an auspicious number!!) but, um, I’m scared, and, um, yeah…

But even if I don’t have seven people lined up at the moment, I will direct you to at least one: Amelia, at eslmarriage.com.

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Gluten Free ≠ Hipster Chic

Having been temporarily fatigued by Anselm and his blasted Latin, I return to le blog.

I am currently in the throes of a head cold, valiantly trying to fight it off before my epic adventure. Part of this fight has involved things that probably ought not to be consumed in close succession: Robitussin, cup after cup of black tea, water with red wine, spoonfuls of lemon juice, chili, chicken soup, multi-vitamins… all that stuff. I guess not much would matter but for the Robitussin. I am irresponsible, BUT I am also recovering faster than I’ve ever recovered…! And I can sleep at night…! But it’s left me with odd(er than usual) thoughts as I drift off to sleep, and some very odd dreams about flying to Toronto via Oslo.

What with the illness and all, I’ve been doing a lot more online reading than I would usually do throughout the day, and as an unfortunate accompaniment to that, reading too many comments tacked onto the end of said online articles. This is not something I would generally recommend to someone such as myself, because as bemused/neutral as I try to remain, inevitably something will irritate the heck out of me and I’ll end up harassing my poor husband about it when he gets home–”have you any idea what this idiotic person on the internet wrote about such-and-such a thing?” Sometimes this will lead to interesting conversations, but mostly I just splutter on incoherently until Family Feud comes on (which never ceases to delight me).

Anyway.

The illness and thus increased reading coupled with my odd home remedies let to more irrationality than usual, and as I was drifting off to zombie sleep it suddenly seemed vital that I write about gluten the next day.

Ah, who now has not heard of gluten and The Gluten-Free Diet? Who has not mocked it? Well, I certainly have heard of it and I certainly have not mocked it, but I have come across a bizarre online backlash against those who follow it–the guiltiest parties I’ve found are Slate and TheConsumerist. Slate has a number of articles in which the author will make a subtle dig–a made-up example because I’m too lazy to go copy-paste a real one: “…hipsters with their all-wood toys, fixed-gear bikes, canvas shopping bags, and gluten-free diets,” as if to say that those who follow a gluten-free diet are doing so for the same reasons they wear really big glasses and tweed jackets. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with really big glasses or reusable grocery bags, but they most certainly represent a different kind of consumption than the things that you, well, consume. Grouping those things together heavily implies that living gluten-free is above all else a lifestyle choice. I don’t know, maybe it is for some people. Who cares? I’m sure there are diabetics out there who think it odd that people would willingly consume splenda rather than sugar, but no one dismisses diabetes as a yuppie sham because so many women choose to drink skinny vanilla lattes. No one goes up to a diabetic (I hope!) and accuses them of faking it or of hypochondria because they don’t have a “diabetic body type” or because they are managing their diabetes well enough that there are no overt symptoms (!).

Which brings me to TheConsumerist, which, I believe, houses the worst offenders–perhaps the result of the anonymity of the internet and the cynical snark they seem to value over there. Again, I’m too lazy to link to the articles in question because I’m writing this from my ipad, but if you go there and do a search for “gluten” and read some of the comments people are posting, you’ll see what I mean. There are a number of conclusions they always seem to draw:

1) Celiac disease is real but is extremely rare and has a very specific set of symptoms common to all “true” sufferers, one of which is being extremely underweight
2) There is no such thing as “gluten intolerance”
3) Following a gluten-free diet is dangerous and unnecessary for the vast majority of people
4) People who claim to be gluten intolerant are either faking it or are imagining things, deserve to be ridiculed, are just trend-following hipsters, etc etc.

Inevitably, someone shows up who is/has worked with celiacs, mentions how:

1) Annoyed/offended they are by people who claim to be gluten-intolerant
2) They most certainly have it because they weigh 95 lbs while their “gluten-intolerant” friend is clearly faking because they weigh 150 lbs
3) It is impossible for anyone to lose weight on a gluten-free diet, you will only gain weight on one, Miley Cyrus is a big fat reprehensible liar.

WELL!

I clearly disagree with all this and think it is snobby nonsense. Not only do I think that we have no right to tell people whether or not they truly suffer gastric distress when consuming certain foods, I think it is awful that ill people would judge others for not being perceivably ill enough! And at the end of the day, the worst they should be is amused that someone thinks their heavily restricted and heavily annoying diet is worth following unnecessarily. I say, if something makes you feel ill, don’t eat it. And I do not believe that someone needs a doctor to tell them that they are gluten-intolerant, just as I don’t believe that someone needs a doctor to tell them that they’re lactose-intolerant. Trust me, if you suffer from either of these conditions, your body will let you know, and shortly.

I don’t think anyone seriously argues that celiac disease does not really exist, but you might (or might not) be surprised to hear that there are people out there who believe that apart from that, no human being could possibly react badly to consuming gluten. I know some of the people I’ve worked with seemed sceptical until I puffed out like a balloon before their very eyes. I’m no scientist, I’m no doctor. I don’t know and can’t pretend to know the exact physiological reasons for the way my body reacts to some of the things that I eat. All I know is that I was often sick as a child with vague stomach pains and that when I was seventeen my digestive system was falling apart, leading me to try all sorts of diets and restrictions as I sought out the culprit–and as soon as I cut out gluten, I began to feel incomparably better. Ah! you might say, Then perhaps you’re one of the rare ones who suffers from true celiac disease!

Only I’m not so sure about that. Yes, it’s true, I often suffer joint pain if I’ve accidentally consumed gluten, but I lack many of the other markers–no strange rashes, for example. And if I am celiac, so what? What does that really do for me? Does it make me a better person, somehow, than teenage celebrities going on gluten-free diets? What business is it of mine, or yours, or anyone, what someone chooses to eat or not eat? Perhaps one day we will discover that day-old orange juice peculiarly affects the odd little creatures living in our gut, or that a freak solar flare fifteen years ago somehow mutated our digestive systems, or Monsanto has turned our wheat fields against us, or WonderBread is slowly poisoning us… how the heck should I know? All I know is that it no longer hurts to eat, and if others are finding this to be the case, or are even just trying it out because they’ve been hearing about it all over the place–and what is so wrong with that?–then who is anyone to judge?

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Oh bother.

This is from earlier today…

Well I’ve hit a block. Ought I run away in fear, cower in a corner somewhere? Ought I give into the temptation to get up for just one more coffee? Or write something out by hand? Or check Facebook–again?

 
Instead I shall compose in purple prose the thoughts, the thoughts that plague me, hoping to find relief in the utter nonsense  of the adjective, the adverbial refuge. Typing, typing–my thoughts turn grey, my back is sore, my cold fingers cramp, useless, over the keyboard.  And in this pale drivel, illuminated by the dank light of a downtown late afternoon, a thought of real substance begins to germinate, like a seed breaking forth from its dank husk, pushing through the clayey soil, bursting into the wan light of day.

 
Phew! Glad that’s over with!

 
Sometimes when I think I can’t write, I realise that I’ve just been taking the whole thing far too seriously. When the words come easily (usually when I care about something), they come easily, and I think that there is nothing more I should like to do than write all day in all forms and genres. But when they don’t, I have no idea where the time goes. It’s not so much a blinking cursor on a blank screen as an unending restlessness. Perhaps too many ideas; perhaps too many intimidating ideas. I have no problem writing so much out when it doesn’t have to be too creative (thus blogging is usually relatively easy despite my rough start today). It’s when I actually care to create something that I have trouble! Blogging can feel narcissistic, in a way, because even if you disagree with my opinions, they are still essentially my opinions. And on top of that, because so much is spewed out unedited, I can easily retract them and blame whatever nonsense I’ve been spouting on whatever I’d eaten or not eaten that day.

 
The problem with fiction is that it needs an internal structure, and it is so very earnest. It’s easy to write all this out and laugh it off. It’s harder to fashion a universe out of worlds and not think that it deserves ridicule. Thus my purple prose above. It’s a defence mechanism against the possibility that at the end of the day I can’t create anything “literary” at all. Too many years of picking apart everyone else’s writing, I suppose. Too many essays, too many term papers.

 

I’ve had a strange desire of late to write a memoir, but not a usual memoir. This memoir would be a “what-if” in which I wrote about what happened to my little brother, a twin of one of my younger sisters. It would be slightly surreal and tinged with what they call magic realism. The only thing is, I don’t have a little brother. So then I falter–is it too cliché? Is it to melodramatically post-modern, post-truth, and utterly pretentious? I’m not sure; like I said, the impulse dies away. Sometimes, though, when I’m chopping carrots or just falling asleep, lines occur to me–lines of dialogue, lines of prose, bits of description–and I think I ought to write them down, but then I realise that they lack context or structure and maybe the whole thing is hopeless, anyway. I also have a play in mind, one scene tentatively begun. And several greeting cards. And a few short stories. And a very very (very very very VERY) rough draft of a novel. And two other grand ideas for novels, only they aren’t so grand in the light of day. And I’m sorry to sound so morose, and I can only make fun of myself to get the creativity going, but sometimes I wonder if I’m so self-conscious that it’s never going to happen…

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The Barista and the Quebec Student; thoughts on the protests and working in a café

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Yesterday I had about half of a somewhat frustrated post written out concerning workers and the first of May and the current student protests. Or at least, those are the issues I planned on discussing in depth, but what I really ended up writing about was how it feels to work in the service industry, and at cafés in particular. I realised that the tone and content were not what I’d had in mind and certainly not in an attitude of rejoicing. It hasn’t taken me long to lose sight of the concept, I’m sad to say. So instead of trying to talk about these things as general concepts or even “facts,” I will instead share my experience with you.

I may live in Ontario now, but I was one of those Quebec students.

I was able to go to school for a variety of reasons: low tuition rates, especially for CEGEP but also for university, government-backed student loans, bursaries, a couple scholarships, and part-time work. I have many, many complaints about the student loan system and many, many anecdotes to support those complaints.

Oh, but the student loans factor in here, because you have to be careful not to work too many hours a week or they will cut you off. Remember that. A student has to work to supplement the loans and bursaries (I received approximately $700/month from them for six months of the year (not twelve!) and that’s with an exemption from the usual required parental contribution–yay large family–plus about $1500 in September and January to cover tuition and textbooks). That might sound like a lot, especially coupled with the part-time job, and it was, relatively–one of my sisters only got 300/month. But I needed to pay my rent (approx 300/month, a steal!), utilities and laundry (approx $150/month), buy my monthly metro pass (also a steal at around $35/month), eat (not cheap pasta or noodles because I’m gluten intolerant, and are students expected to eat unhealthy crap anyway?), pay off my credit card that I’d had to use during the leaner summer months (more on that later) and for text books (the larger amount of money in September barely covered tuition, never mind books and living expenses for that month). Plus clothes, some socialising (I didn’t drink or do drugs, if you were wondering), and coffee for those long nights studying. Never underestimate the necessity of cafes for serious students.

So I needed to work. So I worked in cafés.

Being a barista is not difficult, it’s true, but I don’t understand some of the rhetoric I’ve seen poured out against them in some online articles and message boards (I’m looking at you, commenters on TheConsumerist). It can be gruelling, though, and while I’d rather be a barista than a garbage collector, the garbage collector is at least paid more to deal with people’s crap (haw haw). Shift work is hard on your nerves. Not knowing how many hours you’re going to get is hard on your budget AND your nerves. Too few and you can’t make rent. Too many and you’ll be penalised at school–even if you’re not on student loans, you’re more likely to miss classes due to scheduling conflicts or just plain exhaustion. My feet are permanently messed up from pacing and standing in one place for hours at a time. One place I worked allowed for one 30 minute break no matter how long the shift was–sometimes nine and a half hours. And no smoke breaks (I don’t smoke but thought I’d mention it). My hands are messed up, too. And I have reoccurring bouts of tennis elbow. I’m only 26.

YES, I know, I know–before you say it, there are worse jobs out there (I chose to be a barista, didn’t I? No, not really–that’s just where I could find the work). But they get paid better or they get tips. My tips worked out to roughly $1/hour, whereas my sister, who has worked as a server, would sometimes come home with over $200 for one night. And what is the difference between a barista and a server? A counter. What is the difference between a bartender and a barista? Alcohol and a slightly higher level of belligerency. I’m sure there are those out there who would disagree, and they are free to do so. I would never work as a server because I don’t like the idea of people reaching out and touching me. I would work as a bartender if I ever wanted to work in service again, but I don’t see how they would ever hire me.

Being a barista was an exercise in patience every day–you have to work so fast you can’t think, if you’re good at your job (and I was). It has to be muscle memory and nothing else so you can spend the rest of your time smiling at the customer and trying to read them and maybe distract them from the fact that there are ten drinks before theirs because of the line that’s stretching all the way across the atrium. Meanwhile you have to communicate/deal with your coworkers, many of whom are new due to high turnover (a barista who’s been there for three months is an old hand), keep an eye on health standards, fight exhaustion… and deal with the utter condescension so many customers rain down on you. I remember every once in a while someone would ask me if I was in school and I’d tell them I’d just finished my MA–boy, their tone changed in an instant. I was no longer an underling, but some sort of peer who’d suffered a run of bad luck, someone to be treated with empathy and reassurance and not just some stupid coffee fetcher. So I’d tell them that all but two or three of the people who worked at our location were either in university or had a university degree, and again, they were always amazed. I hope that made a difference. Oh, people are people, and I had my favourite customers–Dr Marc comes to mind, if only because he was so serious and mysterious. I also had my bitter rivals–the angry nurse who always gave us a hard time and told me I had a “sarcastic face.” And I did choose to work there, and at the end of the day it wasn’t the customers who drove me to quitting but one of the people I worked with (plus I was moving to Ottawa, but I didn’t know that at the time).

But what was my point? Good question. My point was, I think, that much in life can be exhausting and demoralising–as a student, as a barista. This does not mean that it is the worst of the worst, or that we shouldn’t be grateful for what we have, but that we ought to view each other with empathy and not participate in a race to the bottom. I’ve heard so many people say of the students protesting: “What are they complaining about? I paid X times more in tuition than them and I made it through school–they should just get a summer job.” So you had it worse in your province so they should have it worse too? Or even worse, people complain about out-of-province students having to pay higher tuition. Well, yes. That’s the case pretty much everywhere, for one thing, and for another, I guarantee you they have better funding from their home province or the federal government. For Quebec students, AFE is the only game in town. Did I mention that they completely cut off my funding for my last two months at McGill, “in order to reduce my debt load” and thus forcing me into even more credit card debt? Somehow I doubt OSAP acts like that. A few years ago a group of students sued AFE and won. What does that tell you? Why can’t we aspire, as a society, to have a highly-educated, debt-free generation that is not mentally, psychically, and physically exhausted by the time they’re ready to enter the work force? I was never able to take part in any internships, for example, because I couldn’t afford to give up my cafe job in the summer because I needed to know that the job would be there for me in the fall–when I would need the money to supplement my income. Should I have risked it anyway? Probably, but at the time I was just worried about finishing my degree and, well, eating. I’m disturbed by the economic rhetoric the government uses when talking about the students. Now that their generation has already benefitted from Quebec’s low tuition rates, had their careers, lived their lives, they want to allocate money reserved to benefit this younger generation (which is facing lean economic times and uncertain future employment!) in order to fund their own retirements.

The same is true for baristas. I’ve heard/read many people dismissing their concerns by saying, “Well, it’s not like pouring coffee is that hard. I’m sure there are many desperate, unemployed people lining up to take their places.” Maybe, but again, should this be a race to the bottom? If someone is willing to work a twelve hour shift at two dollars an hour because “it’s better than nothing,” should we allow it? I’m not necessarily saying that baristas should be paid more, but they should at least be treated with the respect and kindness you would grant someone standing next to you at the bus stop. And please understand that while there are worse jobs out there, that doesn’t mean that the conditions are ideal, or that they shouldn’t be improved.

So maybe this wasn’t very joyful. But it can be! Instead of focussing on the negatives and dismissing the aspirations of those around us, let’s try to wish for better conditions for all of us.

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“Super Hipster Ottawa ‘Cyclist’ Annoys Councillor, Heads to Scandinavia”

Bike parking, Swedish-style

Here is a letter/email I wrote today:

 

Hello Mr Chernushenko,

Would you by chance have any information/suggestions for people trying not to die while riding their bikes on Bank Street in the Old Ottawa South area? I never have any problems in the Glebe, but sometimes I want to go to the library and get a coffee at the Starbucks or Bridgehead just south of it and usually end up walking my bike (not only over the bridge, but on firm ground as well). It’s like as soon as you cross the bridge, drivers are TRYING to run you over.

Where are they all going, anyway? Sporting and community events? The highway?

Also, what is up with the tiny bike lane just north of the bridge? Why bother?

Perhaps one day we can have a proper bike lane?

 

I am pretty much entering the mid-to-late-twenties category and figured it’s time I started being an active citizen.

It is a serious point, though. I read on Mr Chernushenko’s website that he helped save the Sunnyside Library, which is my local library, and which I actually use (to borrow books that I don’t end up finishing, but that’s beside the point). I am very grateful to him for this, but I would like to be able to get there by bike–alive.

I’ve discovered that Ottawa is extremely bike friendly, as it turns out. I did not have much trouble learning how to ride in the city here and regularly take Bank Street even though it has fairly heavy traffic. Not Bloor heavy, but heavy enough by Ottawa standards.  I used to take the canal, but while that is nice for a scenic ride it is a little out of the way, and besides that, you have to constantly go around joggers and afternoon strollers. I’m quite happy to do that (even though I feel like an annoyance every time I warn them of my passing with my bell), but sometimes I just want to get somewhere quickly.

That said, I don’t want to end up squished between a truck and a van somewhere, waiting to be run over by a bus.

The bike lanes on Laurier are nice, but they don’t really go in a direction I need (I’m more North-South than East-West), AND they don’t make it easy to do a left turn onto the bike lane. Left turn off, sure, but not on. It’s pretty weird and slightly annoying. I’ve been surprised, though, at how relatively easy it was to get used to riding with traffic, bike lane or no bike lane. I say this as someone who has never had a driver’s licence and has never had any real incentive to learn the official rules of the road. Well, riding in the city has given me some incentive, I suppose, not only in order to be able to better predict the actions of the drivers around me, but in order to become more predictable to them. I think that the safest way to ride a bike is to try to be as predictable as possible. So while I’m sure motorists would prefer that I shift over to the extreme right at all times, even when there are cars parked every few spaces, I feel much safer riding in a relatively straight line and staying visible. Sorry guys.

Aside from some moron trying to steal my panniers, the whole thing has been fun.

But speaking of fun! In two short weeks I will begin a journey of epic proportions… I will be headed to: SCANDINAVIA! Well, some of it, anyway. Copenhagen, Oslo, and Stockholm, plus whatever little day trips we can squeeze in. I’m pretty excited about it in general–last year for our honeymoon we went to Copenhagen and Malmö among other places and we loved Denmark especially–but I’m also excited because Scandinavian cities are known for being very bike-friendly. I certainly remember a lot of bikes when we were there last year, but I was seeing the city as a pedestrian then (I was hard core pedestrian while living in Toronto) and I’m really curious to see it as a cyclist now. I’m not sure how Oslo or Stockholm are as cycling cities, but I sure can’t wait to find out. If I see anything super amazing, I will definitely document it in some way and be sure to pass it on to Mr Chernushenko, ha ha.

This is all fun and exciting and I’m very much excited and expecting to have fun, but I have one tiny problem: should I blog it? I plan to pack light–ridiculously light. One over-the-shoulder-bag-light. So do I bring my iPad? It isn’t heavy, but it does add weight. Also, do I spend time blogging–time I could be spending eating delicious food (because Copenhagen has absolutely amazing food, if you didn’t know) and exploring nooks and crannies of the cities I’ll be visiting? Or do I just absorb it, let it make an impression on me, and try to recapture its essence when I return to Canada?

I’m not sure. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

Soon... soon...

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@Writersfest Thoughts on Nahlah Ayed, Guy Gavriel Kay, Marianne Apostolides, and (the dreaded) Richard Stursberg at the Ottawa Writers Festival

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Well, here we are–there’s a load of laundry being laundered, some dishes soaking way in the sink (they’re happier that way). Most importantly: I have a coffee.

Well, most importantly for me, anyway.

The Ottawa Writers Festival. Nahlah Ayed drew the biggest crowd and (as is only natural given the subject matter and that she is a journalist) was also the most polished/rehearsed. Not Richard Stursberg rehearsed (ie in a bad way) but rehearsed in the way that someone who has given a lot of thought to a topic and has lived through such a myriad of events is rehearsed. Poised might be a better word. Collected, yet still passionate. Unfortunately, we were sitting in the back on hard pews, and so when the allotted question time began we scurried out of there to find food (lest you think we’re terrible people, we weren’t the only ones and the discussion/talk itself felt very self-contained). It was such a contrast, though, with Stursberg. Ayed is intelligent, humble, articulate, and intellectually honest. Stursberg (her ex-boss!!) is Stursberg. The range the CBC offers! If there is such a thing as “Fort News,” as I believe Stursberg called it, surely there is a reason. Stursberg was so blatantly interested in “reflecting Canadian values” and “ratings” and being “relevant” and “not putting ballet and classical music on the CBC because people who like that stuff are dying off anyway so who cares what they like” (that last one is no joke–he said that). The people behind the news seem to care more about, well, the news and not whether or not Peter Mansbridge has a chair and who gets credited for that. Marketing and numbers and ratings have very little bearing when you’re nearly beaten to death for a story or a suicide bombing occurs right before your eyes. I hope Stursberg was there to see Ayed speak, and was humbled, but somehow I suspect he was not.

Between events we headed over to Sparks (which in my mind is always Sparx–don’t ask) and had some nachos at the Centretown Tavern. It was nice, kind of like how pubs/casual restaurants attached to hotels are nice (and I’m not being sarcastic, I really like that feel). I had a nice cider and they very nicely made me a bailey’s hot chocolate even though it wasn’t on the menu. Hockey was on, but no one was watching it since the Sens were eliminated and it was the Rangers playing, anyway. Too soon, I guess?

We hung out at Bridgehead for awhile and then headed back to the event, which also had Bridgehead coffee available for much cheaper, so I felt like a fool. Much better seats, this time. In the same room Stursberg had been in, incidentally. Perhaps because the Festival was a few days in, perhaps because there wasn’t a Sens game on, perhaps, perhaps…

Anyway, it was the most intimate of the talks, maybe because it was essentially just watching a conversation, maybe because I’m actually pretty interested in the topic.

Confession: I’ve only read one and a half books of Mr Kay’s, out of his tapestry such-and-such trilogy, and I absolutely hated them. Bitterly, passionately. BUT: no one ever mentions those books (his first published, I believe), and his other books have been more or less highly recommended, and it’s been twenty years since he wrote them. I’ve also always been hesitant to say his name out loud, as in my head it’s always been Guy as in… uh… “key” and not Guy as in… “guy.” What can I say, I grew up in Quebec.

Despite my somewhat-prejudices, I really thought that he was well-spoken, intelligent, clearly well-read, prepared for the talk, and aware of the audience (I kept feeling like he was making eye-contact with me, but I know that ain’t so because given the lighting, I doubt he actually saw anyone there). I think I agreed with about 99% of what he had to say about truth, fiction, lies, truthiness, genre, and so forth. I wish I could say something more contentious than that, but I really did, and really, really appreciated his writerly modesty when it comes to writing about real peoples and cultures. His instinct to shift Byzantium into Sarantium reflects, I think, a distaste for objectifying real individuals and a concern for the writer’s responsibility to the audience, to the subject, to the imaginative power of fiction. This is matched for an equal concern for the desire for and aspiration toward objective truth in journalism or any dealing with “real” subjects. He never claimed that the objective truth can be recorded, but the yearning for it is important. I wonder what he would have thought about Stursberg.

I wish I could be as enthusiastic about Apostolides. I strongly suspect that she was just terribly nervous and perhaps not used to speaking in public. I just honestly have no idea what she actually thinks about the topic (apart from her own book). There were a few gasps of surprise from a few people behind me when she mentioned something about writers not being unethical but just being “bad writers.” Someone muttered, “that’s not necessarily true!” Such an honest protest, I thought, but maybe Apostolides just hit too close to home? I had a bit of trouble following her line of reasoning, though. It reminded me of those conferences at McGill (undoubtedly for an English class)–the clear divide between the clear, concise, often witty observations of the instructor and the rambling, panicked, oddly nebulous articulations of the TA. This is either a matter of experience or the result of a POMO-BOBO** shift in how we talk about “ideas” and “truth.” I hope for the former but suspect the latter.

In any case, I thought the evening was enjoyable enough and was delighted to have had the opportunity to attend the Festival. Also I really enjoyed hearing writers talk about, you know, Writing.

**if you’re wondering what I mean by POMO-BOBO, I mean Post-Modern-Bohemian-Bourgeoisie, my standard term of abuse for all sorts of intellectual hipsters, stolen/adapted from David Brooks.

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